Mastering the Art of Growing Tarragon Indoors from Seed

I remember the first time I tried to grow tarragon. I had this grand vision of snipping fresh, anise-scented leaves straight from a pot on my windowsill to elevate a chicken dinner. The reality? A sad, leggy seedling that gave up the ghost before it produced a single usable leaf.

It was a humbling experience, to say the least. But that failure sparked a determination to figure it out. Growing tarragon indoors, especially from seed, has a reputation for being tricky. But what if I told you it’s completely achievable? You just need the right knowledge and a little bit of patience.

Tarragon isn’t just another herb; it’s the heart of French cuisine, the key to a perfect Béarnaise sauce, and a subtle-yet-complex flavor that can transform a simple dish.

Store-bought tarragon can be expensive and often lacks the vibrant punch of a freshly harvested sprig. By growing your own, you gain access to this culinary superstar anytime you want.

This guide is the culmination of my trials, errors, and eventual successes. I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know to cultivate a thriving tarragon plant right in your own home.

We’ll demystify the process, from picking the right seeds to harvesting your aromatic bounty. Forget the intimidating reputation; you can absolutely do this.

Choosing the Right Tarragon Seeds

Before you even think about soil or pots, we need to talk about the most crucial decision you’ll make: the type of tarragon. This is where many aspiring indoor gardeners go wrong, and frankly, it’s not their fault. The world of tarragon is a bit deceptive.

French vs. Russian Tarragon: A Tale of Two Herbs

There are two main players in the tarragon game, and they are worlds apart in flavor and how they grow.

• French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus ‘Sativa’): This is the holy grail. It’s the culinary gold standard with that classic, sophisticated anise-like flavor. Here’s the catch, though: true French tarragon is sterile and does not produce viable seeds. If you see a packet labeled “French Tarragon Seeds,” you should be very, very skeptical. It’s almost certainly mislabeled. The only way to propagate true French tarragon is through cuttings or root division from an existing plant. So, if your heart is set on that authentic flavor, you’ll need to buy a starter plant, not seeds.
• Russian Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus ‘Inodora’): This is the variety you will grow from seed. Now, don’t be discouraged! While it’s true that Russian tarragon has a milder, less complex flavor than its French cousin, it’s still a wonderful herb. It’s hardier, grows more vigorously, and is much easier to start from seed. Think of it as the friendly, approachable cousin. Its flavor is still reminiscent of tarragon, just a bit more subtle and with a slightly bitter note that mellows with cooking. For an indoor herb garden, Russian tarragon is a fantastic and rewarding choice.

So, for the purpose of this guide, we are focusing on growing Russian tarragon from seed. I’ve found that a healthy, well-cared-for indoor Russian tarragon plant provides more than enough flavor for most home cooking needs. Plus, the satisfaction of starting it from a tiny seed is unbeatable.

Where to Buy Your Seeds

Your success starts with high-quality seeds. Don’t just grab the first dusty packet you see at a big-box store. Look for reputable seed companies, either online or at a local nursery.

I recommend looking for companies that provide details on seed viability and the harvest year. Fresher seeds almost always have a better germination rate. Read reviews from other growers if you can. A good seed supplier is your first partner in this indoor gardening adventure.

Preparing Your Indoor Growing Space

Once you have your Russian tarragon seeds, it’s time to set up their new home. Tarragon isn’t a diva, but it does have some specific preferences. Getting the environment right from the start will save you a lot of headaches later.

The Perfect Potting Situation

Choosing the right container is more important than you might think. Tarragon develops a long taproot, so it needs some room to stretch its legs.

• Size: Start with a pot that is at least 8-10 inches deep and 6-8 inches in diameter. This might seem large for a tiny seed, but it gives the root system ample space to develop, preventing the plant from becoming root-bound too quickly. A deeper pot is better than a wider one for this herb.
• Drainage: This is non-negotiable. Tarragon absolutely despises “wet feet,” or soil that stays soggy. Ensure your chosen pot has multiple drainage holes at the bottom. If you’ve fallen in love with a decorative pot that has no holes, you have two options: drill them yourself or use it as a cachepot (a decorative outer pot) and place a functional plastic pot with drainage inside.

Creating the Ideal Soil Mix

You can’t just use dirt from your backyard. Indoor plants need a sterile, well-draining potting mix. Bagged potting soil from a nursery is a good start, but I like to create my own custom blend to give my tarragon the perfect conditions.

My go-to recipe for happy tarragon roots is:

• 60% high-quality potting mix: This forms the base of your soil.
• 20% perlite or pumice: These lightweight volcanic rocks are essential for aeration and drainage. They create air pockets in the soil, preventing compaction and root rot.
• 20% coarse sand or grit: This further enhances drainage, mimicking the sandy, loamy soil that tarragon prefers in its natural habitat.

Simply mix these three components together thoroughly in a bucket or tub before filling your pot. This custom mix ensures water drains freely while still holding enough moisture for the plant.

Let There Be Light!

This is where many indoor herb gardens fail. Tarragon is a sun-worshipper. It needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day to thrive and develop its essential oils (which is where the flavor comes from).

An unobstructed, south-facing window is the absolute best-case scenario. If you don’t have one (and let’s be honest, many of us don’t), don’t despair. This is where technology becomes your best friend. A simple LED grow light can be a complete game-changer. You don’t need a massive, expensive setup.

A full-spectrum clip-on lamp or a small panel will do the trick. Position the light 6-12 inches above the plant and run it for 12-14 hours a day to simulate a long, sunny day. I use a smart plug to automate the schedule, so I never forget.

Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Tarragon Seeds

Alright, your space is prepped and you’re ready to plant. Let’s get those seeds into the soil.

1. Fill Your Pot: Fill your prepared pot with your custom soil mix, leaving about an inch of space at the top. Gently press the soil down to eliminate large air pockets, but don’t compact it. Water the soil thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. Let it drain for at least 30 minutes. You want the soil to be moist, not waterlogged, before planting.
2. Sow the Seeds: Tarragon seeds are tiny! They also need light to germinate, so you won’t be burying them deep. Carefully sprinkle a few seeds (5-10) on the surface of the moist soil. Because germination can be spotty, planting a few extra seeds is a good insurance policy.
3. Barely Cover: Gently press the seeds onto the surface of the soil to ensure good contact. Then, sprinkle a very fine layer of soil or vermiculite over them—we’re talking about 1/8 of an inch, max. The goal is just to anchor them, not to block the light.
4. Create a Humidity Dome: To keep the conditions moist and stable for germination, create a mini-greenhouse. You can cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or a piece of plastic wrap. This traps humidity and warmth, which encourages the seeds to sprout.
5. Patience is a Virtue: Place the pot in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light. Direct sun can cook the seeds at this stage. Now, we wait. Germination can take anywhere from 10 to 21 days. Check the soil moisture every few days, misting the surface with a spray bottle if it starts to dry out.
6. Thin the Seedlings: Once your seedlings are about 2-3 inches tall and have developed a couple of sets of true leaves (the second set of leaves that appear), it’s time for the toughest part: thinning. You need to choose the strongest, healthiest-looking seedling and snip the others at the soil line with a small pair of scissors. It feels cruel, I know, but crowding will lead to weak, spindly plants. You need to give one champion the space and resources to thrive.

Caring for Your Tarragon Plant

You’ve got a seedling! Congratulations, you’re past the first major hurdle. Now, your job is to provide the consistent care it needs to grow into a bushy, productive plant.

Watering Wisdom

The number one killer of indoor tarragon is overwatering. Remember its hatred for “wet feet.” The key is the “drought and drench” method.

Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out completely between waterings. To check, just stick your finger into the soil. If it feels dry down to your second knuckle, it’s time to water. When you do water, do it thoroughly.

Pour water evenly over the soil surface until it flows freely from the drainage holes at the bottom. This ensures the entire root ball gets a good drink. Discard any excess water that collects in the saucer.

Light, Light, and More Light

As mentioned, your tarragon needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sun or 12-14 hours under a grow light. Insufficient light will result in a “leggy” plant one that is tall and stretched out with sparse leaves.

A leggy plant is not only unattractive, but it will also have a weak flavor because it’s not producing enough essential oils. If you notice your plant stretching toward the window, it’s telling you it needs more light.

Feeding Your Herb

Your potting mix has nutrients, but they will be depleted over time. To keep your tarragon growing strong, you’ll need to fertilize it. However, less is more. Over-fertilizing can actually reduce the herb’s flavor.

Start feeding your plant about 6-8 weeks after it has sprouted. Use a balanced, all-purpose liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Feed it once every 4-6 weeks during the spring and summer growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows down.

Temperature and Airflow

Tarragon prefers moderate temperatures, similar to what’s comfortable for usthink 60-75°F (15-24°C). It also appreciates good air circulation, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

Avoid placing it near drafty windows or heating vents that can cause drastic temperature fluctuations. If your room is stuffy, a small, oscillating fan set on low can work wonders.

Harvesting and Using Your Tarragon

This is the moment you’ve been waiting for! The reward for all your hard work is a supply of fresh, aromatic tarragon.

When and How to Harvest

Don’t be shy about harvesting. In fact, regular pruning encourages the plant to become bushier and more productive. You can start harvesting once your plant is well-established, around 6-8 inches tall.

Use clean, sharp scissors to snip off the top few inches of a stem, making your cut just above a leaf node (the point where leaves grow from the stem).

This encourages the plant to branch out from that point. Never take more than one-third of the plant at any given time to ensure it has enough foliage to continue photosynthesizing and growing.

The flavor of tarragon is best when used fresh. The leaves are tender and packed with those lovely anise notes. You can chop them and add them to chicken salad, egg dishes, vinaigrettes, or fish recipes. And of course, it’s essential for a classic Béarnaise sauce.

To store it, you can place the sprigs in a glass of water on your counter (like a bouquet of flowers) or wrap them in a damp paper towel and store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. You can also dry the leaves or freeze them in ice cube trays with water or olive oil for longer-term storage.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

I’ve made all of these mistakes, so you don’t have to. Pay attention to these common pitfalls.

1. Buying the Wrong “Seeds”: The most common error is buying seeds labeled “French Tarragon.” As we discussed, they don’t exist. You’ll end up with flavorless or entirely different plants. Stick to reputable sources and know that you’re buying Russian tarragon for seed-starting projects.
2. Overwatering: This is the cardinal sin of indoor herb gardening. That instinct to constantly nurture your plant with water is its enemy. Soggy soil leads to root rot, which is almost always a death sentence. Embrace the “drought and drench” method and always check the soil before watering.
3. Providing Insufficient Light: A dim corner will not produce a happy tarragon plant. Lack of light leads to weak, leggy growth and, most importantly, a severe lack of flavor. Be honest about your light situation. If you don’t have a sunny window, invest in a grow light. It’s a small price to pay for success.
4. Starting in a Tiny Pot: While it seems logical to start a small seed in a small pot, tarragon’s deep taproot will quickly feel constrained. Starting in a pot that’s at least 8 inches deep gives it the room it needs from the beginning, resulting in a much healthier and more robust plant.

Conclusion

Growing tarragon indoors from seed might seem like a challenge reserved for seasoned gardeners, but it is absolutely within your reach.

By understanding the critical difference between French and Russian varieties, providing the right foundation of well-draining soil, and committing to giving it the light it craves, you can cultivate a beautiful and aromatic plant right on your windowsill.

The journey from a tiny, dust-like seed to a lush, harvestable herb is incredibly rewarding. You’ll gain not only a fresh ingredient for your kitchen but also a deeper connection to the food you eat. Remember the key takeaways: choose Russian tarragon seeds, prioritize drainage and deep pots, provide plenty of light, and resist the urge to overwater.

So, are you ready to give it a try? Go find some quality seeds and start your own indoor tarragon adventure. I’d love to hear about your experience! Share your progress, successes, or even your questions in the comments below.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

My tarragon seedlings are really tall and floppy. What did I do wrong?

This is a classic sign of “legginess,” and it’s almost always caused by insufficient light. The seedlings are desperately stretching to find a stronger light source. Move your pot to a sunnier location or, better yet, supplement with a grow light positioned just a few inches above them.

Why do the leaves on my indoor tarragon plant taste bland?

Flavor in herbs is directly tied to the concentration of their essential oils. Two main culprits diminish flavor: insufficient light and overwatering. Make sure your plant is getting at least 6-8 hours of intense, direct light daily.

Can I keep my indoor tarragon plant alive through the winter?

Yes, you can! Tarragon is a perennial, but it naturally goes through a dormant period in winter. Its growth will slow down significantly. You should reduce watering, allowing the soil to get even drier between sessions, and stop fertilizing completely from late fall until early spring.

My tarragon plant is getting woody at the base. Is this normal?

Perfectly normal! As a tarragon plant matures, it’s natural for the lower stems to become woody. This is a sign of a healthy, aging plant. Regular pruning and harvesting from the top, tender growth will encourage the plant to produce more of the soft, usable leaves you want for cooking.